Long before her work gained widespread online attention, British-Nigerian celebrity makeup artist Esther Nzogi Edeme, known as Painted by Esther, had already established blush as a defining element of her artistry. Her approach is bold, layered, and intentional, placing colour at the centre of her beauty philosophy.
Inspired by artists such as Sam Fine and Danessa Myricks, Edeme developed a signature style that prioritises saturated blush application. At the core of her work is a consistent focus on dark-skinned Black women, positioning them as central to a beauty aesthetic that had often overlooked deeper skin tones in favour of more conventional standards.
Born in Nigeria and raised in the United Kingdom, Edeme has built a clientele that spans the global entertainment and fashion space, including Ayra Starr, Tyla, Raye, Viola Davis, Anok Yai, Chloe Bailey, Naomi Campbell, Doechii, and Olandria Carthen. Her artistry has also been highlighted in collaborations with MAC Cosmetics, including campaigns that feature her approach to blush application and product use.
Beyond blush, her broader aesthetic is defined by bold eyeshadow, luminous skin, spiky lashes, and full lips. Together, these elements form a cohesive style that balances softness with structure.
Edeme has described her philosophy as one centred on enhancement rather than transformation. “My goal is always to bring out that glow from within and never let makeup mask the person underneath,” she says. “I want inner beauty to shine through in its most elevated form, while celebrating every shade, feature and expression of Black women.”
Her approach to blush extends beyond basic application, treating it as a tool for structure, dimension, and expression.
To recreate her blush technique, she uses a layered approach built around tone variation and placement.
Start with multiple blush tones
Her method typically involves three shades: a transition shade for blending, a main shade for definition, and a deeper tone used to add depth and structure. Each plays a specific role in building dimension across the cheeks.
Apply the main shade first
The boldest colour is placed high on the outer cheek to create a lifted effect. Instead of focusing on the apples of the cheeks, placement begins further back and is blended inward to allow the colour to naturally soften toward the centre of the face.
Add the transition shade
A softer tone is applied closer to the centre of the face to help diffuse the main colour. This step creates a gradual shift in tone and prevents harsh edges.
Deepen the outer edges
The deepest shade is applied along the outer cheek area to reinforce structure and add definition. This helps connect the blush seamlessly into the rest of the makeup look.
Build a gradient effect
A key feature of her technique is a smooth transition between shades. Whether working from deep to soft or soft to deep, the goal is a continuous gradient that blends without visible separation.
Layer throughout application
Rather than applying blush only at the end of the makeup process, product is layered at different stages. Additional pigment can be added after foundation, powder, or bronzer to maintain intensity and balance.
Finish with signature details
The look is completed with spiky lashes, strategic highlighting, and a radiant base. Lips are kept full and defined to complement the overall finish, creating a cohesive look built around colour and glow.
Together, these steps reflect Edeme’s approach to makeup as a layered, expressive process where blush is not an accent but a central feature of the face.
